Personal Colour Analysis has evolved dramatically since the early 1980s, when Carol Jackson’s Colour Me Beautiful introduced the four-season model to the world. While it was a groundbreaking start, many found that the limited four-season approach didn’t capture the full spectrum of our diverse complexions. In this system, the Summer season is characterised by cool, soft, and muted hues.
Through years of draping thousands of clients—I discovered that existing systems often left gaps that my client’s colouring didn’t fit into. This inspired me to develop my Absolute Colour System, a more nuanced approach featuring 18 distinct palettes that truly cater to every skin tone and colouring.
I was asked about how to determine undertones with a “summer” palette and so within my Absolute Colour System, the Summer season is related to my Sublime palette (I have 4 palettes that I call Summer Adjacent, they have some of the “summer” properties of being cool and light, but some are brighter, some more smokier. Here, I’ll explain how to determine undertones and select colours for your palette using my Sublime palette as an example.
Blending with the Palette, Not Matching Exactly
When it comes to building your wardrobe, it’s essential not to get bogged down trying to match colours exactly. Instead, step back and ask yourself: Does this fabric blend beautifully with the overall colours in my palette? It doesn’t have to match exactly, it should just look like it relates in value (lightness to darkness of the overall palette), undertone (warmth or coolness) and intensity (brightness to smokiness of the palette).
For example, when I assess a fabric, I’m not checking if it’s the exact pink or blue in my palette. I’m considering whether the fabric’s overall feel—the mix of hues, its intensity, and value (that is, how light or dark it is)—harmonises with the colours in my Sublime palette. If the fabric has a little warm green tucked in, but it generally echoes the coolness and clarity of my palette, then it works. It’s the overall blending that counts.
The Power of Palette Cards
One of my favourite tools to simplify this process is a set of palette cards. I provide my clients with cards that showcase both their primary palette colours and their opposites. In my system, the Spicy palette is the warm counterpart to the cool Sublime palette. Though both share a similar light-to-medium intensity, their undertones differ.
When you’re shopping, use these cards as a quick reference. If you’re considering a garment, compare its colour to your cards. Does it echo the soft purples, cool whites, or gentle greens in your palette? If you encounter something like an orangey red—a hue that doesn’t appear in your palette—it’s a clear sign that the item might clash with your overall wardrobe harmony.
Notice how both the coloured side and the neutral side of the Sublime palette card above work with this fabric, whilst the Spicy neutrals and colours don’t? You want your neutrals to work with your colours, as this gives you more outfits from fewer garments and the colours and neutrals in your wardrobe will have the correct colour properties.
Balancing Intensity, Value, and Undertone for Your Palette
As I mentioned earlier, it isn’t just about matching the colour; it’s also about balancing three key elements:
- Undertone: Does the colour lean warm or cool?
- Intensity: How vivid is the colour?
- Value: Is the colour light or dark?
Even if a fabric has a similar undertone and intensity to your palette, a value that’s too dark or too light might disrupt the cohesive feel of your wardrobe. Always view your choices holistically, ensuring each piece aligns in intensity, value, and undertone with your Sublime palette.
Creating a Cohesive Wardrobe
By looking at your palette as a whole, you’re not just picking individual colours—you’re crafting a harmonious collection. When every item in your wardrobe is chosen with blending in mind, you end up with outfits that mix and match effortlessly. Fewer pieces, more outfit options, and a wardrobe that works as a natural extension of your style.
It’s about making informed choices. Ask yourself, “Does this piece belong in my wardrobe, where every colour, every neutral, and every accent works together?” This mindful approach not only simplifies your styling but also ensures that your personal colour story remains consistent and beautiful.
Ready to Elevate Your Style?
Determining your undertones and refining your colour palette might seem complex at first, but it’s all about seeing the big picture. With the right tools—like your palette cards—and a focus on blending, you can build a wardrobe that truly reflects who you are.
If you’d love to discover your best palette of colours from my naunaced Absolute Colour System, then I’d love to do your personal colour analysis. What’s great is that no matter where you live, I can do it for you online. Find out more here about one-to-one colour analysis.
If you’re ready to take this journey further, consider exploring my 7 Steps to Style program. It’s designed to empower you with the knowledge and confidence to curate a wardrobe that is as cohesive as it is inspiring.
Remember, your wardrobe is more than just clothes—it’s a canvas for your personal expression. Embrace your colours, trust the process, and let your style shine!
Recommended Reading
Finding Your Perfect Palette: The Evolution of Personal Colour Analysis
How to Determine the Best Colours that Match Your Colour Palette
Getting Your Head Around Value and Contrast – the Celebrity Version
